Damage Prevention and Control 

Dealing with otters can be difficult, as otters are agile, curious, and can get around many types of exclusions. There are various options to help prevent future damage and provide at least a level of damage control for many potential otter-human issues. Like all wildlife-human conflicts, however, dealing with otter damage, no matter the method used, will ultimately be a short-term fix to a long-term problem. Prevention methods, generally more costly, tend to have longer success at keeping problems from reoccurring likely have to be repeated in the future as new issues arise.

Non-lethal options:

Otters can be discouraged from areas by sealing existing den sites and water impoundment outlets (i.e., culverts, drainage pipes, etc.). The sealing of water impoundment outlets should be done to allow water flow, but exclude otters. Fish loss from otters can be reduced by providing fish escape options from predation, thus increasing the difficulty for otters to catch them. This can be done by maintaining aquatic vegetation and placing brush or other structures in the water impoundment or pond to provide fish a place to hide.

Electric fencing or netting is also an option, but it is often too expensive or impractical for larger areas. If using electric fence, use at least 4 strands, spaced 4-5 inches apart. These strands should be tight and clear of weeds to prevent grounding. The bottom wire should also be low to the ground. The goal is to make spacing between strands small enough that an otter cannot pass through without getting shocked.

Otter removal may be necessary if damages are significant. Relocation is rarely the best solution because otters have to be moved long distances to prevent their return. In addition, the moving of wildlife should be done carefully and according to local regulations, as diseases and parasites travel with their host and may infect more individuals and spread disease. In areas where otter populations are high, understand that removing one otter may mean a new one moves in to take its place quickly.

Lethal options: 

Lethal methods (hunting and trapping) should be used as a last resort when dealing with any wildlife related issue. Given that otters are managed at the state level dealing with damage issues is regulated on a state-by-state basis. Lethal methods can be used throughout the year depending on the situation. However, it is recommended removing otters during the state trapping season (mid-November to end of February) to provide the potential to sell the pelt if desired. During the trapping season, you can purchase a trapping license and trap the problem otter(s) yourself, or you can seek assistance from a licensed fur trapper to remove otters. Fur trappers will often trap otters for little or no charge since they may sell the otter’s pelt for profit. KDFWR offers a trapper registry by county that can be used to find fur trappers in your area. Refer to KDFWR hunting and trapping guides for specific season dates and legal methods for trapping. Information to find Kentucky trapping regulations will be in the References section of this document. Trapping regulations may change year to year, so make sure to check the most up-to-date regulations. 

Another option, particularly outside of trapping season, is to either personally obtain a Commercial Nuisance Wildlife Control (CNWC) permit, or hire someone who is a CNWC operator, to remove the nuisance otter(s). If you are dealing with otter issues on your personal property, then you have more legal powers related to dealing with the problem. The Kentucky Revised Statute, KRS 150.170 allows Kentucky citizens, or designees, the ability to remove nuisance wildlife at any time of the year if it is causing damage to your property as long as the species is not federally-protected. However, otters removed under this statute may not be used for any purpose (i.e., sale of pelt) and are required to be left onsite or destroyed. To summarize, under KRS 150.170, you have the right to lethally remove an otter if it is a nuisance (causing damage) outside of the trapping/hunting season without tags/permit requirements, but you are not allowed to keep the otter pelt or carcass. 

River otters are listed in the Appendix II of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). This means that although they are not currently threatened with extinction, their use and trade must be monitored to prevent overexploitation. KDFWR states that “harvested otters must be telechecked (a method of reporting) by calling 1-800-245-4263 by midnight on the day the animal is recovered, before processing the carcass, and before transporting raw fur, pelt, or unskinned carcasses out of Kentucky.” It is necessary to attach a KDFWR issued CITES tag to raw fur of a river otter taken in Kentucky you intend to sell or export internationally. If you have any questions, you can contact your local KDFWR conservation officer or wildlife biologist. These resources are listed in the References section. 

Shooting 

Shooting is a viable option if you have the time and ability to stalk an otter or time to wait to see one causing damage. Otters have poor vision and may not see a person nearby, and occasionally otters will become curious enough to even approach a hunter. Both rifles and shotguns can be used to shoot river otters in Kentucky. When choosing a rifle caliber to shoot an otter any rimfire or centerfile rifle is legal in Kentucky per KDFWR regulations at time of writing. At close range (50 yards or closer for a rifle; 30 yards or closer for a shotgun) any rimfire cartridge (i.e., .17 HMR, .22 long rifle, .22 Hornet) or shotgun gauge will work. There is no shot size restriction per KDFWR regulations for shotgun shells, but if possible use #5 shot or larger. If shooting longer distances, any .22 caliber centerfire cartridge or similar (i.e., .22-250, .223, etc.) is sufficient, but larger centerfire calibers can be used. As with anytime you are firing a weapon at or near water extreme caution should be taken to avoid ricochets by bullets off the water. Also, you need to be aware of any local regulations or ordinances relating to discharging weapons/firearms.

Trapping 

Trapping is the most effective removal method; once set, a well-placed trap does the work for you. In other words, you can catch an otter without having to physically be there. However, traps do not discriminate between what they catch, the location must be chosen strategically in order to reduce bycatch (non-target animals). Common bycatch that occurs when trying to catch otters are beavers and raccoons. Beavers, raccoons, and otters often frequent the same trails and travel corridors where traps are likely to be placed. Additionally, otters and beavers often use the same slides and trails to access water. Proper placement of traps is important to help limit bycatch, particularly when domestic animals and people are in the area. 

Otters can be trapped in a variety of traps, including cage traps, footholds, and body-grip traps. Correctly choosing a trap will depend on your objectives and trap location. When trapping, make sure that all traps are anchored securely, so that captured animals cannot break free with the trap. Footholds are best anchored with cable stakes; body-grip traps with cable in conjunction with metal stakes. Reference material is available online and in trapping manuals on how to set traps for the highest chance of success. 

Cage traps for otters can be expensive and are often less efficient than other trapping methods; however, they offer the best method for live trapping otters and reducing harm to non-target animals. Cage traps come in a variety of forms and can be used baited or un-baited depending on the situation. Comstock traps are a fast-closing, versatile, and heavy-duty type of cage trap often used to trap beaver and otter. These can be placed along slides and trails in a variety of positions. Un-baited traps include runway traps and colony traps. (Colony traps are typically set underwater to drown otters). Baited cage traps can be set next to trails or in shallow water to live trap otters. 

Foothold traps for otters can be effective choice, but may require a little more experience and trapping skill. These are often rigged so otters drown when captured; however, if the otter is not drowned caution should be used when dispatching the otter in order to prevent personal injury. Foothold traps can also offer a way to release non-target animals when drowning rigs are not used. Foothold traps can be set in or out of water, but there is a size limit on trap jaw spread for land traps in Kentucky (≤6 inches). (NOTE: Once again check the most up-to-date state trapping regulations for the specific size). 

Foothold traps are sized using numbers, with smaller numbers indicating a smaller trap; however, state trapping regulations go by the size of the jaw spread when the trap is set due to variation in trap sizing by different manufacturers. Therefore, jaw spread size is what you need to be concerned about when selecting a trap for land use. When trapping otters with foothold traps, use traps that have a jaw spread of 6 inches or larger. (NOTE: As of writing, in Kentucky 

any trap with a jaw spread of greater than 6 inches must be placed in water). Foothold traps can be placed in trails or at the bottom of slides, and are often used with bait or scent lures. Drowning sets are foothold traps that are placed near water and attached with a one-way slide to a cable that is anchored to both the bank and in at least 4 feet of water. When caught, the otter will swim down the cable and will not be able to return to the surface for air due to the one-way slide. 

A body grip trap is effectively a kill trap; however, to ensure a quick death, proper size and placement of the trap is important. Body grip traps are set in trails, slides, or channels that otters travel. Several sizes of body-grip traps can be used for otters, but the 220 (7in x 7in), 280 (8in x 8in) and 330 (10in x10in) in) are the most common and effective. In Kentucky, 280s and 330s can only be set in water. If you want to set a body-grip trap on land for an otter, use the 220-sized trap. Use 280s and 330s at the bottom of slides and in swimming channels in the water. With body-grip traps, it is impossible to release bycatch, so make sure to place body-grip traps on known otter travel ways to reduce the chance of harming other species, pets, and potentially humans. 

NOTE: Body grip traps can be dangerous if they are not handled or set properly. Using a set tool and a safety latch system can help ensure that setting and placing traps is as safe as possible. Additionally, steel traps are indiscriminant and some sets are lethal. When placing traps around populated areas, make sure to take precautions to avoid catching domestic animals (i.e., dogs and cats). This may mean using un-baited traps, or only setting traps in water for otters.